( aka Four Pattern Bingo )
Bespoke linen/silk mix Glen-check suit cut by John Deboise at Cad & the Dandy
Boater by Olney
Watered silk boutonnière from A Suitable Wardrobe
Dotted silk knit tie from Howard Yount
MtM linen shirt from Joe Hemrajani
Vintage bespoke suede shoes by J. Jane & Co via ebay
A little Winter sun has given me all the excuse I need to break out my new summer suit, cut by John DeBoise at Cad & the Dandy.
Made up with a classic, structured shoulder, roped sleeve head, deep vents & generous, yet proportional, lapels & pocket flaps.
Cut from a handsome, lightweight, Prince of Wales check cloth, in a slubby linen & silk mix that I found in a fabric warehouse visited last year with Gerald & Diana of Vanda Fine Clothing, who, incidentally, made this tie for me.
First of all, thank you for your kind compliments & support, I am always pleased & greatfull that people find my little blog helpfull or inspiring. Most of my suits and sportscoats have not been made specifically for me!
I have been lucky enough to find some wonderfull bespoke and made to measure items second hand through ebay and the clothing forums as well as in vintage stores around London. Although these garments where not made for me originally, they have been a good enough approximate fit that a talented alterations tailor has been able to work his magic to good effect. The true bespoke ( made for me ) and made to measure I do have has been from city tailors Cad & the Dandy, more specifically with head cutter John Debiose ( older brother to Edwin of Steed Tailors ) whose suits, the green tweed DB & a PoW check still in construction, are definitely the best fitting things I own.
I have seen great things coming out of Graham Browne, Simon Crompton’s first suit from there ( a navy DB ) is still one of the most flattering things I have seen him wear, including the things he has from the big name Savile Row houses & Neapolitan makers such as Rubinacci’s. ( that said when I saw him last he looked smashing in his outfit from Steven Hitchcock, much better than in his photographs from his website! )
I would not hesitate to visit Graham Browne for a commission, and may well do so for something very lightly structured & unlined, Russell, the owner/head cutter, seams very flexible and willing to experiment or include less traditional ideas into his cutting, this along with a very reasonable price make them very tempting.
If going bespoke, be very sure of what you want, wear your best fitting clothes to the tailors and explain what you like or dislike about the fit. do you want a higher or lower buttoning point, broader shoulders, more or less structure in the chest, a concave or convex shoulder line, roped or natural sleeve heads.
Your tailor can only help you if you communicate your feelings about your clothes, if at a fitting, you don’t feel something is sitting quite right or the trousers are hanging messily, let them know and see what can be done.
Tailors want both you & themselves, to be happy with your suit before they let you out the door. On a first suit this can take some time & tweaking, but as a working relationship grows between you, this, by all accounts, gets easier.
Good luck, I hope this has helped?