BePrepared 
Spring is coming, time for lightweight suits, pale colours & summer hats. ( & squinting eyes )
a shot from last year, wearing a bespoke suit from Cad & the Dandy, cut by John DeBoise

BePrepared 

Spring is coming, time for lightweight suits, pale colours & summer hats. ( & squinting eyes )

a shot from last year, wearing a bespoke suit from Cad & the Dandy, cut by John DeBoise

TweedySaturday

TweedySaturday

BespokeDreams

To celebrate moving to a permanent space at No.13 Savile Row, My tailors, Cad & the Dandy, decided to do something a little special. Weaving a lovely checked cloth on a beautiful Georgian hand loom on site & then proceeding to cut, tailor & finish the suit entirely on the Row.

Congratulations to all the wonderful folks at C & the D. ( & thanks for the hangover! )

Blues&Tans

Blues&Tans

CollarRoll 
OCBD MtM from Hemrajani Brothers
Silk Knit from Howard Yount
Silk/Linen/Wool check coat Bespoke from John DeBoise at Cad & the Dandy
Pocket Square from Suit Supply

CollarRoll 

OCBD MtM from Hemrajani Brothers

Silk Knit from Howard Yount

Silk/Linen/Wool check coat Bespoke from John DeBoise at Cad & the Dandy

Pocket Square from Suit Supply

LondonSun 

( aka Four Pattern Bingo )

Bespoke linen/silk mix Glen-check suit cut by John Deboise at Cad & the Dandy

Boater by Olney 

Watered silk boutonnière from A Suitable Wardrobe

Dotted silk knit tie from Howard Yount

MtM linen shirt from Joe Hemrajani

Vintage bespoke suede shoes by J. Jane & Co via ebay

TurnBack

TurnBack

Pattern&Texture   
The structured, slightly extended, British shoulder line, with a roped Sleave-Head, cut by John DeBoise at Cad & The Dandy.
Worn with a Made-to-Measure shirt by Joe Hemrajani & my lovely tie from Gerald & Diana of Vanda Fine Clothing.

Pattern&Texture   

The structured, slightly extended, British shoulder line, with a roped Sleave-Head, cut by John DeBoise at Cad & The Dandy.

Worn with a Made-to-Measure shirt by Joe Hemrajani & my lovely tie from Gerald & Diana of Vanda Fine Clothing.

SundayBest

SundayBest

BritishBespoke  
A little Winter sun has given me all the excuse I need to break out my new summer suit, cut by John DeBoise at Cad & the Dandy.
Made up with a classic, structured shoulder, roped sleeve head, deep vents & generous, yet proportional, lapels & pocket flaps.
Cut from a handsome, lightweight, Prince of Wales check cloth, in a slubby linen & silk mix that I found in a fabric warehouse visited last year with Gerald & Diana of Vanda Fine Clothing, who, incidentally, made this tie for me.

BritishBespoke  

A little Winter sun has given me all the excuse I need to break out my new summer suit, cut by John DeBoise at Cad & the Dandy.

Made up with a classic, structured shoulder, roped sleeve head, deep vents & generous, yet proportional, lapels & pocket flaps.

Cut from a handsome, lightweight, Prince of Wales check cloth, in a slubby linen & silk mix that I found in a fabric warehouse visited last year with Gerald & Diana of Vanda Fine Clothing, who, incidentally, made this tie for me.

LondonTweed

LondonTweed

Boutonnière
Bespoke Tweed coat ( part of a suit ) - John DeBoise for Cad & The Dandy
Bespoke Shantung silk tie - Vanda Fine Clothing
Grey flannel trousers - Pakeman Catto & Carter

Boutonnière

Bespoke Tweed coat ( part of a suit ) - John DeBoise for Cad & The Dandy

Bespoke Shantung silk tie - Vanda Fine Clothing

Grey flannel trousers - Pakeman Catto & Carter

Question Time: - Hello Giantbeard, I’m C. (from Singapore), and study in the UK. Been following your tumblr for quite some time now, and I think that the way your suits fit are amazing. Amazing drape on the coats and trousers, with barely a crease. I was wondering if you could let me know who your tailor is? Was thinking about going to Graham Browne, but I’ve been hearing mixed reviews. I was hoping that you could point me in the right direction. Look forward to hearing back from you. Cheers, C.

First of all, thank you for your kind compliments & support, I am always pleased & greatfull that people find my little blog helpfull or inspiring. Most of my suits and sportscoats have not been made specifically for me!

I have been lucky enough to find some wonderfull bespoke and made to measure items second hand through ebay and the clothing forums as well as in vintage stores around London. Although these garments where not made for me originally, they have been a good enough approximate fit that a talented alterations tailor has been able to work his magic to good effect. The true bespoke ( made for me ) and made to measure I do have has been from city tailors Cad & the Dandy, more specifically with head cutter John Debiose ( older brother to Edwin of Steed Tailors ) whose suits, the green tweed DB & a PoW check still in construction, are definitely the best fitting things I own.

I have seen great things coming out of Graham Browne, Simon Crompton’s first suit from there ( a navy DB ) is still one of the most flattering things I have seen him wear, including the things he has from the big name Savile Row houses & Neapolitan makers such as Rubinacci’s. ( that said when I saw him last he looked smashing in his outfit from Steven Hitchcock, much better than in his photographs from his website! )

I would not hesitate to visit Graham Browne for a commission, and may well do so for something very lightly structured & unlined, Russell, the owner/head cutter, seams very flexible and willing to experiment or include less traditional ideas into his cutting, this along with a very reasonable price make them very tempting.

If going bespoke, be very sure of what you want, wear your best fitting clothes to the tailors and explain what you like or dislike about the fit. do you want a higher or lower buttoning point, broader shoulders, more or less structure in the chest, a concave or convex shoulder line, roped or natural sleeve heads.

Your tailor can only help you if you communicate your feelings about your clothes, if at a fitting, you don’t feel something is sitting quite right or the trousers are hanging messily, let them know and see what can be done. 

Tailors want both you & themselves, to be happy with your suit before they let you out the door. On a first suit this can take some time & tweaking, but as a working relationship grows between you, this, by all accounts, gets easier.

Good luck, I hope this has helped?

-T

EarlyTweed 
Bespoke double breasted tweed suit cut by John DeBoise at Cad & the Dandy.
Worn with a custom shirt from Joe Hemrajani & silk bow-tie from Drake’s London.

EarlyTweed 

Bespoke double breasted tweed suit cut by John DeBoise at Cad & the Dandy.

Worn with a custom shirt from Joe Hemrajani & silk bow-tie from Drake’s London.

TweedTime

TweedTime