A vintage inspired Semi-Formal(ish) outfit today, making use of this linen & silk blend DB waistcoat, swap out the unstructured whipcord sports coat for a ‘Stroller’ and it would have been appropriate Formal day wear for the city back when dress codes where still enforced.
I’ve been looking at formal day wear, or ‘Morning-Dress’ recently as I’ve been trying to help a friend get kitted out for his wedding next month, I love all of the variation that used to occur within this apparently ridged set of dress rules. It’s a real shame that all you really see now are poorly fitted hire clothes in horrible, lightweight, shiny fabrics, usually paired with matching satin ascots & pocket squares.
The flannel DB, wear it like pyjamas, it’s not stuffy, far from formal & is comfortable as hell!
Remember, it is a lounge suit.
this weeks StyleForum Friday challenge is an Italian inspired take on business dressing as demonstrated by those captains of industry/cloths horses documented over on Italian Industrialist.
Italian made Gieves & Hawkes Flannel suit, I’m still not happy with the fit, deciding weather to take it back to the tailors or pass it on, I think the buttoning point is just a little too high for me.
Worn with a MtM button down Shirt, Vanda Fine Clothing tie ( tied with extra sprezz ), E. Marrinella square, suede O-ring belt & Carmina suede cap toes.
Spring is coming, time for lightweight suits, pale colours & summer hats. ( & squinting eyes )
a shot from last year, wearing a bespoke suit from Cad & the Dandy, cut by John DeBoise
This wonderful 64 year old tweed suit is by Denman & Goddard, formally of Sackville Street, now relocated to St. George Street in Hanover Square. I’ve tried to show how the suit really follows and forms to the body in movement, how even though heavily structured, it’s volume & natural ease makes for an elegant and comfortable silhouette.
Originally made for someone even bigger than me, it is perhaps a little too long in the body, certainly in the sleeves & the trousers come all the way up to the rib cage. Despite this, I love it, & it remains one of my favourite ebay bargains.
Another early spring day led me to this cream linen & grey flannel combination. The beautiful sunshine meant some bolder accessories could be used, a label heavy (for me) mix of Tom Ford tie, Vivienne Westwood square & Ralph Lauren Purple Label sports coat.
Of special interest to me is this great linen coat, with its vintage inspired pleated & belted back. Made from an old fashioned heavy cloth, half lined, with bell shaped patch pockets & oversized mother of pearl buttons. All these details and their historic references encourage my natural tendencies towards a 20’s & 30’s mode of dressing, this can easily veer towards costume if not kept in check, so today I did my best to limit other ‘vintagey’ notes, keeping it to just the dandyesque spectator shoes, no hat, no bow-tie, no pocket watch.
I hope it works…
A pair of MtM linen trousers I had made by Luxire, with a high, split back for braces & an extended tab ending in an adjuster for tightening the waistline. Maybe a little over engineered, but very comfortable.