Showing posts tagged winter
beijing1980 wearing a beautiful heavy tweed overcoat in a true Donegal from the great Molloy & Son mill.
Crombie’s RAF Blue, heritage overcoat, based on its military archives.
FU Plaid made me rethink..
Usually I use a common set of specifications (dimensions & details) for my suits, such as length of jacket/pants, cuff height pocket designs etc. But cloth design & type also dictates adoption to keep balance, proportion & scale in check.
As this cloth is quite heavy with fuzz & an almost 3D effect plaid, we had to tone down some of the details such as:
- Smaller cuff - from 5cm to 4cm
- Wider leg from knee down - less taper, though I may revisit this
- Jacket body & buttoning point lowered by 1.5cm
The sum of the above now creates more drape & hence an elegant silhouette to counter balance the FU Fuzzy PLAID.
Travelling light today
LongWong not LongWing or WingDings
What next? A heavier cloth also require heavier shoes - something like the classic Alden LongWings are perfect or a double sole derby.
This particular shoe was developed between Tassels Hong Kong & Alden to celebrate 125 years in a very limited run due to the rarity of colour #8 Scotch Grain Shell Horween cordovan. In addition to the rare leather, they opted for a single leather sole to dress it up.
Details | Suit - A&S | Shirt - P Johnson for GW | Tie - Herringbone | PS - Kiton | LongWongs - Alden
My kind of fabric, nicely realised in a fantastic suit worn well.